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CHILEAN PATAGONIA
TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK, GLACIERS, THE AUSTRAL ROAD, TIERRA DEL FUEGO, AND FJORDS
The backbone of this territory is the Austral Road, running from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins. After that come the impenetrable Ice Fields and the road disappears to reappear north of Puerto Natales. Finally the road reaches Punta Arenas. The Austral Road was built in the 1980s to link by land places that were previously accessible only by plane, by sea or from Argentina. It is an endless road of over 1200 kilometers that runs through an impressive landscape of straits, lakes, forests, waterfalls, glaciers and snow-capped mountains. A road that every summer is traveled by backpackers and adventurers from all over the world that have turned their bicycles or motorbikes into their homes. In this lonely and silent region -which Darwin described as a "green desert"- some houses are visible from time to time, with smoke coming from their chimneys as evidence of the perennially lit kitchen stove. At the center of the house and the family life, the stove is used for cooking, fighting the cold and the damp of the rain, and also for gathering the family around it to sit and talk. The people from this area are generally muleteers in long capes, berets and legs covered with goatskins. Their job is cattle rearing and they can be seen on horseback, lonely, always followed by a dog, their best assistant in the driving of sheep. They drink yerba mate to combat the cold and play Truco to fend of boredom. They are also dab hands at making roast lamb barbecues.
The region's lakes with abundant fishing (including several species of salmon and trout) pull in adventurous visitors, as does the glacier of Laguna San Rafael. Cruisers set sail from Puerto Montt and Puyuhuapi venture into the straits and then suddenly come alongside picturesque inlets and barren islands as they sail through the narrow Moraleda Channel. The cruisers sail practically touching the thousand islands of the Chonos Archipelago until they reach the Laguna San Rafael and its enormous wall of ice.
The glacier can be admired up close and the scene is unforgettable for those watching enormous chunks of ice break off from this gigantic mass and fall with a thundering noise that breaks the surrounding silence. There are icebergs, which float on the lagoon, and it is possible to sail among these floating ice castles that show only a tenth of their actual size. The very brave may wish to approach them in small boats and have a glass of whisky with cubes of thousand year old ice, while admiring their various shapes and the translucency of their colours.
Another of Patagonia's great attractions is its thermal baths. The village of Puyuhuapi is not only famous for its woven fabrics that preserve the original designs of the huilliche and tehuelche indians, but also for its thermal waters. The visitor can bathe in the hot springs that come from the depths of the mountains and immediately take a swim in the freezing waters of the Seno Ventisquero. A stay in Puyuhuapi allows for boat tours, walks and long hours of sport fishing. Nearby, north of Puerto Cisnes, on the road between Coyhaique and Puyuhuapi, Queulat National Park harbours an untouched forest. It shows the forest as it was, that is before the settlers using fire and machetes made clearings for planting and grazing, leaving behind a graveyard of burnt out tree trunks. In this park more 150 thousand hectares of virgin territory enable the visitor to encounter a place where nature is intact and the only thing to be heard are the songs of the chucao and dozens of other birds with the background tenor a the river that rumbles through a deep canyon. Coïgues, lengas and over 200 native species of trees, enormous ferns and gigantic nalcas form a green mantle, humid and compact, spotted by fucsias and the red flower of the notro. Also from the park, one can admire Ventisquero Colgante (Hanging Glacier), a spectacular glacier whose melting ice forms waterfalls from impressive heights
This whole area is a paradise for fishermen, whether it is salmon or one of several kinds of trout (brown, rainbow or brook). Rivers like the Futaleufú, the Baker -with Chile's greatest volume of water- and the Palena, are ideal for "dry fishing." There are pure waters, virgin beaches and a catch that at times may seem never-ending. On several of these crystal clear rivers excursions may be undertaken in rafts, on which the nights are spend at bankside camps recovering from and recouping energy for the many rapids. Patagonia is a region of spectacular natural reserves and great areas have been declared national parks to preserve the environment with its native flora and wildlife. Thousands of years ago, nomad tribes from the country's north, hunting the guanaco and the ñandú, scoured this area. These peoples were called tehuelches or patagones, because of their large feet, and they were tireless wanderers of the patagonian mountain range.
From Coyhaique (the capital city of the region, founded in 1929 and which has developed around an unusual five-side central square) the traveller can visit some truly unique places, where nature has been perfectly preserved. In particular the Elizalde, Paloma, Castor and Pollux Lakes surrounded by green mountains and snow-capped peaks. Coyhaique is also the starting point to visit towns like Puerto Aisén -the name comes from the english "ice end"-, Puerto Cisnes on the mouth of the Cisnes river and its spectacular emerald waters, Mañihuales or Balmaceda, the site of the airport, surrounded by a golden pampa of coirones. Further south down the Austral Road, the beauty of the dark blue waters of Lake General Carrera (the deepest lake in South America and the seventh deepest in the world) leaves the visitor speechless. This lake crosses the border with Argentina and is called Buenos Aires on the Argentinean side. On the Chilean side is Puerto Tranquilo -a few houses and a wharf-, from which boats leave to visit the famous Catedral de Mármol (Marble Cathedral), a peninsula with caves to the water's edge into which the boats enter and the passengers find themselves moving between water-polished marble walls, an experience that is difficult to forget.
400 kilometers north of Punta Arenas, after crossing vast windswept plains, the visitor reaches Torres del Paine National Park (242 thousand hectares), declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. Tectonic movements that took place 12 million years ago sculpted these mountains, giving them the shape of towers and horns. They are an imposing background to an area of glaciers, lakes, rivers and waterfalls; the habitat of foxes, pumas, guanacos, flamingos and ñandúes, and also of condors and migratory birds like queltehues, woodpeckers, bandurrias, Magellan Straits seagulls and black-back swallows that come all the way from the United States. This and other national parks have tourist facilities like hotels in different price ranges and a wide choice of guided tours. Further toward the south, in the company of the Southern Hemisphere's biggest ice masses (excluding those of the Antarctic continent) it is possible to feel you are the end of the world. On the shores of the Señoret channel (in front of the Patagonian Andes through which you can glimpse the glaciers of Campos de Hielo Sur) is Puerto Natales and its inhabitants of almost 16.000 people. This small city is the center of the cattle rearing activity in the area and from it you may visit the Cueva del Milodón (Mylodon Cave), a gigantic rock formation where the pre-historic animal remains which were found in 1896 are today replicated in fibre glass. Other important archaeological finds in caves in this area include, traces of human settlements over 12 thousand years old.
Hernando de Magallanes who named it Estrecho de Todos los Santos -All Saints Strait- discovered the Magellan Strait on November 1st 1520. The strait allowed Magallanes to make the historical crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. The strait's physical setting is no less impressive than its historical one. When crossing through the strait Magellan's attention was struck by the campfires lit on the land to the south of the strait by the indigenous onas or selknam, for this reason he chose to call this land Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire). Nowadays, the hundreds of fires that light the nights of this southern most tip of South America are no longer the onas' campfires, but those of the oil drillings that have produce natural gas since 1945. The hundreds of excursions and adventures in this great austral territory begin in the cities of Coyhaique -to the north- and Punta Arenas -to the south. Among the most popular trips are those that venture into the fjords and that cover the trip from Ushuaia sailing through the Magellan Strait. The ships are specially designed with the comfort of passengers in mind and during the voyages they may peacefully admire the landscape. Those who wish can get off the ships to see various points of interest and to visit small villages in the company of the villagers themselves who will proudly show them the area. One of the main attractions of the cruises through Tierra del Fuego are the penguin colonies. Among them, Magdalena Island where there is a teaming colony and where you can see the adults teaching their offspring how to survive in the freezing Antarctic waters.
Since its foundation in 1848 -on the northern shore of the Magellan Strait-, Punta Arenas takes pride in an intense trade in sheep wool, the origin of the great fortunes amassed by colonists living on huge estates. The splendour of the mansions of the time can still be seen in the city, next to excellent hotels, restaurants, museums and art centers. And for ski fanatics, Punta Arenas also has slopes overlooking the Strait, a unique experience and only one of the many that can be enjoyed in this region -located, quite literally, at the end of the world.
TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK - PATAGONIA
TORRES DEL PAINE: UNESCO WORLD BIOSPHERE RESERVE
South America's most famous park and a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, Torres del Paine is best recognized for its magnificent central massif, sculpted by glaciers into the unmistakable cuernos (horns) and torres (towers). Varied and abundant wildlife, including guanacos and dozens of bird species, make this Patagonia's top adventure travel destination.
Torres del Paine sector is an extensive geographic zone with numerous natural attractions that includes from the Torres del Paine National Park, a known world Biosphere Reserve to the limit of Ultima Esperanza and Magallanes provinces. The Fairway lighthouse is the southwestern extreme of the zone and is located in the Pacific Ocean mouth of the Magellan Strait.
TORRES DEL PAINE NATIONAL PARK It was created in 1959 and declared Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1978. Is located in Ultima Esperanza province, 145 km. north of Puerto Natales. It has 3 accesses: Porteria Sarmiento, Laguna Amarga and Laguna Azul.
It has a surface of 242,242 hectares, with an altitude from 200 meters to 3,050 (Paine Massifs).
PAINE MOUNTAIN CHAIN It is an impressive joint of mountains, governed by steep granite towers and by the photogenic Corns and the imposing Big Paine. The mountainous massif is crowned by glaciers and surrounded by lakes with aquamarine, emerald, turquoise, sapphire and lapis lazuli colors. A microclimate holds a rich flora and many wild fauna that romps freely around lagoons and among beautiful woods of bearded trees. It is not a surprise that UNESCO designated the place as World Biosphere Reserve or the Chilean State as a National Park.
A web of well kept paths, with widely separated refuges allow access to best corners and had contributed to fill the dreams of trekkers from all over the world. If in addition there are lodgings from camping to well equipped hotels, it is easy to realize why Torres del Paine is the crowning point of every trip to South America and why this park justifies to venture until the edge of the world itself.
THE PAINE HORNS The characteristic black rock that crowns the Paine Horns is an account of the tectonics and icy forces that sculpted this massif. Something more than ten millions years ago, this kind of sedimentary rock covered wide areas in the region. Sometime said rocks had contact with the magma of the inside of the earth, forming the granite rocks. Afterwards, the colossal pressures of the planet bowels made rise these impressive mountains that we know today as Torres del Paine.
When the glacial era came, the ice covered all the territory. Only stacked out the top of the highest mountains. The withdrawal of the ices brought the granite to view, over which remained the black rock not covered by glaciation, because of that today we may appreciate huge Towers with different colors in a same massif, which is doubtless one of the biggest silent shows of Patagonian nature.
BASE OF PAINE TOWERS
This excursion takes us to the mythical towers of granite rock, through a trekking by narrow paths and steep ascents. Starting the trip we found the Ascensio River, which force us to cross by a footbridge so we may climb some small hills and arrive after 2 hours walk, to the Chilean refuge. After continuing skirting round the Ascencio river and one and a half hour later, we find a lagoon at the foot of the majestic Torres del Paine. The south, central and north towers form this spectacular landscape that by years has been gazed by thousand of tourist from all the world, the same way its more than 1 km. walls have defied expeditions that yearn for reaching its summits. It is possible to return the same day and sleep in hotel, refuge or camp. If you wish, you can camp in the interior of the valley, in Torres camp or Japanese camp.
"W", TORRES DEL PAINE BASE, FRENCH VALLEY AND GREY GLACIER
This circuit of well-designed paths allows a lengthy excursion to the inside part of the Massif of Torres del Paine Park, besides of knowing the main attractions of it. It has several refuges in the journey.
First day: the start is very early to set out for Torres del Paine, enjoy the beauty of the mountain and return to sleep in the inn, camp or refuge Las Torres.
Second day: The route goes around lake Nordenskjold and after 5 hours of trekking arrive to the foot of Paine Horns, where we find the Refugio Cuernos. Going on in the middle of woods and pastures, after 2 hours walking, we arrive to the Italian camp, where we have the possibility of camping in a place well protected from the wind and enjoy the beauties of the Valle Frances. Another option is to keep on for another two hours, enjoy the view of the glacier and Rio Frances and penetrate in the deepest of the valley and sleep in the Britanico camp.
Third day: The route to follow is to go in the morning to Pehoe refuge from the Britanico camp, 4 hours, or from the Italiano camp, 2 hours. It is necessary to cross a footbridge over the Frances river to meet later a view of Pehoe lake. From the refuge we continue by a path very well signaled, between the Grey lake and the Big Paine, and after 3 hours of easy trekking, arrival to Grey refuge, where it is possible to spend the night. Keeping on, at 30 minutes, is the main viewpoint of Grey glacier.
Fourth day: The return force us to take the ship crossing in Pehoe lake and navigate for 45 minutes, arrive to Pudeto sector and connect with the different buses companies toward the destination we choose.
CIRCUITO MACIZO MONTAÑOSO PAINE It is the most extense excursion around the big mountain joint and that for years has been described as forced route in all the books that promote trekking in Patagonia. It allows achieving it in 6 or 8 days according to the physical conditions of the visitors, and the climatic variability..
- First day: Trekking to the base of the Towers, by the valley of Ascencio river, lodging in refuge or Las Torres camp .
- Second day: Four hour s run, leaving from the refuge or Las Torres camp to arrive, a later lodge, at Seron camp.
- Third day: Departure form Seron camp for a 3 hours trekking up to Paine lake an another 3 hours to Dickson refuge.
- Fourth day: Departure from Dickson refuge towards Los Perros camp in 4 hours.
- Fifth day: The climate will influence in the length of this trekking, since is the highest crossing of the park. Departure form Los Perros camp, going through Paso and Guardas camps and finally arrive to Grey refuge, in about 9 hours.
- Sixth day: Departure from Grey sector towards Pehoe refuge, a 3 hours run, leaving optional time to visit the Frances valley.
- Seventh day: Return journey by seaway boarding a ship in Pehoe or else walking to CONAF administration office.
ADMINISTRATION - LAGUNA VERDE This tour is a good choice by its short distance and its great scenery beauty. The trekking starts on Weber bridge toward Laguna Verde. The run is in the middle of exuberant vegetation, mostly lenga trees. The trekking lasts 3 hours and the end of it we find the beautiful sight of Laguna Verde contrasted to the Paine mountain massif. It is important to point that at some few meters is the Estancia Lazo, a cattle center established at the end of 19th century, now a tourist inn, "Mirador del Paine", where you may enjoy wonderful landscapes, specially an exceptional view of the Paine massif, impressive lakes, glaciers and thousand-year-old woods.
CIRCUITO UNIÓN DOS PARQUES NACIONALES With a 9 hours length, this tour promises to give the chance to discover extraordinary beauty zones. The tour borders the Serrano river until, in one-day link Bernardo O'Higgins and Torres del Paine national parks, on a route of medium exigency.
Thus tour can be made in both ways, being the commonest the one that starts in Monte Balmaceda complex. The route includes several waterfalls, abundant vegetation and the view of Geyke and Tyndall glaciers, part of South Patagonian Ice Field, ending in Rio Serrano camp, at twilight.
TREKKING TO PINGO LAKE The viewpoint of Grey lake and glacier is the end of the way in a vehicle. There is here a parking lot and the Lago Grey daycare. In this point starts the trekking to the Pingo area; is a three and a half hours run to the rustic Zapata refuge, and another hour trekking to reach the lake viewpoint and at the back, the sight of Pingo glacier, the last presence of the South Patagonia Ice Field in Torres del Paine National Park.
TRES PASOS SECTOR A cultural prestige has the "Tres Pasos" hotel, where there is, next to it, a monument of Gabriela Mistral, reminding the stay of this great Chilean poetess. There also is camping area in Tres Pasos estancia.
SECTOR LA PENINSULA Is a place of beautiful landscape environment, where is the camping area "Bahia del Bote", with a variety of services, among which out stands their functional cabins.
LAZO SECTOR In this area is the Lazo estancia and an inn with a beautiful sight of the Paine mountain massif. From here it is possible to go to different points of the Torres del Paine National Park, by trekking or on horseback.
CERRO CASTILLO ESTANCIA The estancia has a spacious construction, newly built and thought in the setting of a family characterized by its services. This house contrasts with the other typical buildings of a Magellan estancia where it is possible to watch country work, to walk about the beautiful and privileged sector where it is seen the Castillo hill, to do horse rides or trekking to the Ballena hill, sighting of a variety of birds, and enjoying the typical "asado al palo" (roast meat stick-style).
TREKKING ON ICE IN GREY GLACIER The tour starts in Grey camp (Torres del Paine National Park) every day at 9 o'clock (high season November-February). The trekking on the glacier lasts 5 to 8 hours. At the beginning of the tour, the participants are instructed how to travel on the ice with the help of the expert team (crampons, ice axes, harness, ropes, etc.). During the course of the program it will be possible to appreciate a variety of ice forming, such as cracks, at the same time that the guides deliver explanations about the geographical environments and general glaciology. Everybody interested in this experience must use clothing fit to Patagonia climate: gloves, hat, glasses, parka, etc.
DOWN SERRANO RIVER TOUR
A unique experience is to link two national parks by river navigation and at the same time get pictures of the South Patagonian Ice Field. Furthermore, this tour can be made in one day.
This travel starts every day (high season, November-March) at 9.30 a.m. from Serrano camping, Torres del Paine National Park, where guides with vast experience on Patagonia navigation will wait along the zodiac boats, which set sail down the river completely equipped. After ten minutes sailing we may begin to appreciate a landscape really amazing and seldom totally explored. As we are navigating down the river, the guides give information about vegetation and bird life of the area. At the moment of leaving Torres del Paine National Park territory we have the first sight of South Patagonian Ice Field, approximately 350 km. of ice that here receive the name of Tyndal Glacier, and the most spectacular Geyke Glacier. Later, near noon, it is possible to visit Estancia Anita, a typical example of life in Patagonia, appreciating the warmth that distinguishes Magallanes people.
At the end of the navigation, we get to the mouth of Serrano river, where Ultima Esperanza fiord invite us to visit Serrano and Balmaceda glaciers, part of the Bernardo O'Higgins National Park.
HORSE RIDE AND ADVENTURE IN GEYKE GLACIER
Interesting and full of pure adventure is the chance of extending this travel staying in Estancia Anita, in a country atmosphere where Mr. Luis Guerrero Casola and family will give you all the necessary services to undertake the special experience of going deep into the Patagonia steppe setting course to the imposing Geyke glacier.
The horse riding and the perspiration by the effort that make us go on by a path full of illusion, with clean skies occupied by the flight of condors and the silence of Nature, let oneself go after the charm of this magic land.
Not less spectacular is the reward obtained by three hours riding and finding the Geyke lake, full of ice floes, floating wit their singular shapes and attractive colors at the bank of the lake.
Its is possible to watch the glacier from a viewpoint on top of a nearby hill. Here the presence of South Patagonia Ice Field let us appreciate one of the first-rate glaciers in the Patagonia, the Geyke glacier.
